Care guide
Green Bark Centipede (Eastern Bark Centipede)
Hemiscolopendra marginata
A small, hardy native centipede in green-to-blue-gray tones that stays under 3 inches. One of the easiest true centipedes to keep, but still a venomous, hands-off animal.
Hemiscolopendra marginata
Green Bark Centipede (Eastern Bark Centipede): Advanced Care Guide
Keeper Snapshot: A small, hardy native centipede in green-to-blue-gray tones that stays under 3 inches. One of the easiest true centipedes to keep, but still a venomous, hands-off animal.
Group: CentipedesDifficulty: Spice 4: AdvancedSetup: Small terrestrial burrowing/bark-dwelling centipedeHandling: NEVER
Use This Guide Safely
- Confirm the exact animal. Match this guide to the species, locality, size, and life stage on your label. If the ID is uncertain, use the more conservative part of the range and ask before changing the setup.
- Change one thing at a time. Treat temperature and humidity as target zones, then watch posture, burrowing, drinking, feeding, and molt behavior before making another adjustment.
- Respect the handling boundary. If the guide says no handling, fast, defensive, or medically significant, plan transfers with catch cups, locked lids, and no bare hands. For serious bites, stings, or symptoms, seek emergency medical care.
Quick Snapshot
| Temperature | 70-80°F |
|---|---|
| Humidity | Ambient 60-75%, cross-ventilated; damp under the bark, drier open surface |
| Setup Type | Small terrestrial burrowing/bark-dwelling centipede |
| Substrate | Moist soil/coco mix with bark pieces and leaf litter, 3-4in deep |
| Feeding | 1/4-3/8" crickets/roach nymphs (about half body length); every 1-2 weeks, offered at dusk |
| Care Difficulty | Spice 4: Advanced |
| Handling | NEVER |
Humidity zones: Very Low under 30% - Low 30-60% - Low-Moderate 40-70% - Moderate 60-80% - Moderate-High 70-85% - High 80%+ - Very High 90%+
Enclosure Format / Size Class
- juvenile starter setup
- adult enclosure with 3-4in substrate and bark cover
Warnings First
- Venomous bite, painful even from a small species like this one
- Fast and an excellent escape artist through tiny gaps
- Single housing only
- No handling, ever; use tools/catch cups for every enclosure interaction
- Cross ventilation low on two opposite walls is the priority mention for this species. A bark-dweller's microclimate lives under the bark, and that pocket only stays healthy if air is moving across the substrate around it.
Simple Care
- Layer moist substrate with bark pieces and leaf litter so it can wedge itself into tight, humid retreats.
- Cross ventilation low on two opposite walls, at substrate level, in fine mesh. Airflow around the bark, damp underneath it.
- Keep humidity moderate; mist under the bark rather than soaking the whole thing.
- Bottle-cap or jar-lid water dish filled with pebbles so this small species cannot drown.
- Feed small prey every 1-2 weeks. This is a small species that does not need much.
- Every lid, vent, and seam must be centipede-proof; this species is small enough to exploit gaps that would hold in larger animals.
Advanced Keeper Notes
Enclosure & Microclimate
- Give bark slabs and leaf litter on top of a moisture-retentive substrate. This species naturally hides under loose bark and forest debris.
- Ventilation should be generous but escape-proof: fine mesh rather than large gaps, since this is a small-bodied centipede.
- Place that mesh low on two opposite walls so you get real cross ventilation at substrate level. This species is the clearest example of why it works: in the wild it lives in the damp film between bark and wood, with forest air moving freely around it. Air crossing the substrate layer while the underside of the bark stays damp reproduces that exactly. Venting only at the top gives you the opposite, a dry surface over a saturated, motionless litter layer, which is where mold and mite blooms take hold.
- Size the mesh against the head, not the body. At under 3 inches this animal exploits gaps that would comfortably hold a giant Scolopendra, so bond the mesh flush and check the edges.
- Ventilation and ambient humidity trade against each other, so manage them together. Hold 60 to 75% by keeping the substrate under the bark damp and running a small water dish, and let the vents move air. Restricting airflow to hold a humidity reading turns the litter layer stale, and stale litter is what kills bark-dwellers.
- Judge moisture by lifting a bark piece rather than reading a gauge. The substrate under the bark should be cool and damp with no free water, while the open surface and top of the litter can look dry. That contrast is the microclimate.
- A bottle cap or jar lid is the right size dish here. Fill it with pebbles or coarse grit so the water sits below the rim, because a sub-3-inch centipede drowns easily in an open dish. It also feeds low-level humidity so the open substrate does not need to be wet.
- Mist under the bark slabs, directly onto the substrate beneath them, rather than spraying the enclosure generally. That recharges the damp pocket the animal actually occupies and leaves the open surface and airflow untouched.
Feeding, Growth & Maintenance
- Feeding: crickets or roach nymphs sized at roughly half the centipede's body length or less, about 1/4-3/8in for this species. Centipedes subdue prey with venomous forcipules, so oversized prey isn't necessary and can fight back. Offer every 1-2 weeks in the evening.
- Growth: modest number of molts to maturity over roughly a year; lifespan around 3-5 years.
- Maintenance: remove uneaten prey within 24-48 hours using tools only, and stop feeding at the first signs of premolt (pale color, curling, inactivity) until the new exoskeleton hardens, typically about a week for a centipede this size.
Possible Origin / Range
- Likely native range: Southeastern United States, under bark, leaf litter, and rotting logs in woodland habitats.
- Habitat translation: A moist, bark-and-leaf-litter terrestrial setup sized for a small, fast, escape-prone centipede.
Advanced Keeper Details
- Despite the small adult size (under 3in), this is still a venomous predatory centipede. Every enclosure interaction should be tool-only, never bare-handed.
- Escape risk is high relative to its size; verify vent mesh and lid seals specifically against a small, fast-moving animal, not just a large one.
- Coloring ranges from green to grayish-blue depending on the individual and lighting, which is where the common name comes from.
Hemiscolopendra marginata
Green Bark Centipede (Eastern Bark Centipede)
Big Z's Quick Verdict: A small, hardy native centipede in green-to-blue-gray tones that stays under 3 inches. One of the easiest true centipedes to keep, but still a venomous, hands-off animal.
Group: CentipedesDifficulty: Spice 4: AdvancedSetup: Small terrestrial burrowing/bark-dwelling centipedeHandling: NEVER
Use This Guide Safely
- Confirm the exact animal. Match this guide to the species, locality, size, and life stage on your label. If the ID is uncertain, use the more conservative part of the range and ask before changing the setup.
- Change one thing at a time. Treat temperature and humidity as target zones, then watch posture, burrowing, drinking, feeding, and molt behavior before making another adjustment.
- Respect the handling boundary. If the guide says no handling, fast, defensive, or medically significant, plan transfers with catch cups, locked lids, and no bare hands. For serious bites, stings, or symptoms, seek emergency medical care.
Quick Care Snapshot
| Temp | 70-80°F |
|---|---|
| Humidity | Ambient 60-75%, cross-ventilated; damp under the bark, drier open surface |
| Setup | Small terrestrial burrowing/bark-dwelling centipede |
| Substrate | Moist soil/coco mix with bark pieces and leaf litter, 3-4in deep |
| Feeding | 1/4-3/8" crickets/roach nymphs (about half body length); every 1-2 weeks, offered at dusk |
| Handling | NEVER |
Humidity zones: Very Low under 30% - Low 30-60% - Low-Moderate 40-70% - Moderate 60-80% - Moderate-High 70-85% - High 80%+ - Very High 90%+
Recommended Big Z's Setup
- Bark Buddy or Burrow Buddy, either works for this small species
Critical Notes
- Venomous bite, painful even from a small species like this one
- Fast and an excellent escape artist through tiny gaps
- Single housing only
- No handling, ever; use tools/catch cups for every enclosure interaction
- Cross ventilation low on two opposite walls is the priority mention for this species. A bark-dweller's microclimate lives under the bark, and that pocket only stays healthy if air is moving across the substrate around it.
Care Basics
- Layer moist substrate with bark pieces and leaf litter so it can wedge itself into tight, humid retreats.
- Cross ventilation low on two opposite walls, at substrate level, in fine mesh. Airflow around the bark, damp underneath it.
- Keep humidity moderate; mist under the bark rather than soaking the whole thing.
- Bottle-cap or jar-lid water dish filled with pebbles so this small species cannot drown.
- Feed small prey every 1-2 weeks. This is a small species that does not need much.
- Every lid, vent, and seam must be centipede-proof; this species is small enough to exploit gaps that would hold in larger animals.
Feeding, Growth & Maintenance
- Feeding: crickets or roach nymphs sized at roughly half the centipede's body length or less, about 1/4-3/8in for this species. Centipedes subdue prey with venomous forcipules, so oversized prey isn't necessary and can fight back. Offer every 1-2 weeks in the evening.
- Growth: modest number of molts to maturity over roughly a year; lifespan around 3-5 years.
- Maintenance: remove uneaten prey within 24-48 hours using tools only, and stop feeding at the first signs of premolt (pale color, curling, inactivity) until the new exoskeleton hardens, typically about a week for a centipede this size.
Current Big Z's catalog: Yes
Hemiscolopendra marginata
Green Bark Centipede (Eastern Bark Centipede): Advanced Care Guide
Keeper Snapshot: A small, hardy native centipede in green-to-blue-gray tones that stays under 3 inches. One of the easiest true centipedes to keep, but still a venomous, hands-off animal.
Group: CentipedesDifficulty: Spice 4: AdvancedSetup: Small terrestrial burrowing/bark-dwelling centipedeHandling: NEVER
Use This Guide Safely
- Confirm the exact animal. Match this guide to the species, locality, size, and life stage on your label. If the ID is uncertain, use the more conservative part of the range and ask before changing the setup.
- Change one thing at a time. Treat temperature and humidity as target zones, then watch posture, burrowing, drinking, feeding, and molt behavior before making another adjustment.
- Respect the handling boundary. If the guide says no handling, fast, defensive, or medically significant, plan transfers with catch cups, locked lids, and no bare hands. For serious bites, stings, or symptoms, seek emergency medical care.
Quick Snapshot
| Temperature | 70-80°F |
|---|---|
| Humidity | Ambient 60-75%, cross-ventilated; damp under the bark, drier open surface |
| Setup Type | Small terrestrial burrowing/bark-dwelling centipede |
| Substrate | Moist soil/coco mix with bark pieces and leaf litter, 3-4in deep |
| Feeding | 1/4-3/8" crickets/roach nymphs (about half body length); every 1-2 weeks, offered at dusk |
| Care Difficulty | Spice 4: Advanced |
| Handling | NEVER |
Humidity zones: Very Low under 30% - Low 30-60% - Low-Moderate 40-70% - Moderate 60-80% - Moderate-High 70-85% - High 80%+ - Very High 90%+
Enclosure Format / Size Class
- juvenile starter setup
- adult enclosure with 3-4in substrate and bark cover
Warnings First
- Venomous bite, painful even from a small species like this one
- Fast and an excellent escape artist through tiny gaps
- Single housing only
- No handling, ever; use tools/catch cups for every enclosure interaction
- Cross ventilation low on two opposite walls is the priority mention for this species. A bark-dweller's microclimate lives under the bark, and that pocket only stays healthy if air is moving across the substrate around it.
Simple Care
- Layer moist substrate with bark pieces and leaf litter so it can wedge itself into tight, humid retreats.
- Cross ventilation low on two opposite walls, at substrate level, in fine mesh. Airflow around the bark, damp underneath it.
- Keep humidity moderate; mist under the bark rather than soaking the whole thing.
- Bottle-cap or jar-lid water dish filled with pebbles so this small species cannot drown.
- Feed small prey every 1-2 weeks. This is a small species that does not need much.
- Every lid, vent, and seam must be centipede-proof; this species is small enough to exploit gaps that would hold in larger animals.
Advanced Keeper Notes
Enclosure & Microclimate
- Give bark slabs and leaf litter on top of a moisture-retentive substrate. This species naturally hides under loose bark and forest debris.
- Ventilation should be generous but escape-proof: fine mesh rather than large gaps, since this is a small-bodied centipede.
- Place that mesh low on two opposite walls so you get real cross ventilation at substrate level. This species is the clearest example of why it works: in the wild it lives in the damp film between bark and wood, with forest air moving freely around it. Air crossing the substrate layer while the underside of the bark stays damp reproduces that exactly. Venting only at the top gives you the opposite, a dry surface over a saturated, motionless litter layer, which is where mold and mite blooms take hold.
- Size the mesh against the head, not the body. At under 3 inches this animal exploits gaps that would comfortably hold a giant Scolopendra, so bond the mesh flush and check the edges.
- Ventilation and ambient humidity trade against each other, so manage them together. Hold 60 to 75% by keeping the substrate under the bark damp and running a small water dish, and let the vents move air. Restricting airflow to hold a humidity reading turns the litter layer stale, and stale litter is what kills bark-dwellers.
- Judge moisture by lifting a bark piece rather than reading a gauge. The substrate under the bark should be cool and damp with no free water, while the open surface and top of the litter can look dry. That contrast is the microclimate.
- A bottle cap or jar lid is the right size dish here. Fill it with pebbles or coarse grit so the water sits below the rim, because a sub-3-inch centipede drowns easily in an open dish. It also feeds low-level humidity so the open substrate does not need to be wet.
- Mist under the bark slabs, directly onto the substrate beneath them, rather than spraying the enclosure generally. That recharges the damp pocket the animal actually occupies and leaves the open surface and airflow untouched.
Feeding, Growth & Maintenance
- Feeding: crickets or roach nymphs sized at roughly half the centipede's body length or less, about 1/4-3/8in for this species. Centipedes subdue prey with venomous forcipules, so oversized prey isn't necessary and can fight back. Offer every 1-2 weeks in the evening.
- Growth: modest number of molts to maturity over roughly a year; lifespan around 3-5 years.
- Maintenance: remove uneaten prey within 24-48 hours using tools only, and stop feeding at the first signs of premolt (pale color, curling, inactivity) until the new exoskeleton hardens, typically about a week for a centipede this size.
Possible Origin / Range
- Likely native range: Southeastern United States, under bark, leaf litter, and rotting logs in woodland habitats.
- Habitat translation: A moist, bark-and-leaf-litter terrestrial setup sized for a small, fast, escape-prone centipede.
Advanced Keeper Details
- Despite the small adult size (under 3in), this is still a venomous predatory centipede. Every enclosure interaction should be tool-only, never bare-handed.
- Escape risk is high relative to its size; verify vent mesh and lid seals specifically against a small, fast-moving animal, not just a large one.
- Coloring ranges from green to grayish-blue depending on the individual and lighting, which is where the common name comes from.